Tuesday, June 26, 2012

Jotunheimen


I forgot to mention the bicycles in Copenhagen. They are everywhere!! The city has a goal of being the most auto free in Europe and they are well on their way. There are very few private cars on the downtown streets, just bikes and buses. And not that many motorbikes either, just plain old single speed, coaster bikes. And like Harleys and Model Ts, most are painted black. As the incidence of theft is high, most don't invest in a good looking or high tech bike for there every day commute. And they ride year round, not just in nice weather. They are welcome on the buses and underground trains as well with elevators in the train station to go down to the trains. I do see motorbikes on the road, about half cruisers with two up and camping gear, the other half sport bikes with full riding gear and traveling in a group, a tour maybe. The people that I have met are extremely friendly with wide open smiling faces and more that willing to help with whatever I need Two have even lent me their telephones as I did not bring my US only phone with me. The internet and Skype, as expected, are widely available but not very fast.
The sun only highlights part of this great view.
I have ridden many really wonderful roads in the past, but yesterday's ride on Highway 55 through Jotunheimen National Park was outstanding in many ways. Excesses of water, ice, snow and far vistas interspersed with cute lodges and farms made it hard to keep my eyes on the road. Parts were similar to Glacier or Estes Parks, but this was five times longer and had many other 'mosts' As extras, the road is very narrow, one lane at times and never wide enough to merit a center stripe, and the switchbacks were quite a bit sharper than usual - a challenge for my big Gold Wing (but not me, of course). The day before, I rode up and then back the deep valley north of Lillehammar and thought that that was pretty marvellous, but the shortcut road out of Vinstra and over to Lom brought on new expectations.  And then Highway 55!!!  Google this park up and try to find some photos. I tried, but my camera is just not big enough to capture all of this.

Last night was at the Walaker Hotel in Solvorn.  I balked at the price when I first came through, but then in town the Best Western had the same price and I knew that this would be my last hotel for a week, so I came back the 20 km. It has been in continuous operation by the same family since 1690 and is quite the European classic. It is the oldest hotel in Norway, quite picturesque and right on the fjord. Their offering for dinner last night was a six course extravaganza for $95 plus wine. I picked up a take away sandwich and a beer from the cafe and enjoyed it sitting on the pier. The hotel breakfasts are spectacular buffet affairs with meats, cheeses, breads, eggs, herring, salmon, yoghurt, cereals, juices, and coffee. Much of it home made or local and all very good. I think there must be some type of competition between the different hotels and it is always included with the room. Or maybe the room is included with the breakfast.

It is raining again/still as it did most of yesterday. Not a downpour, just overcast with a splash of sunshine now and then and a sprinkle every twenty minutes, just to keep me in my rain gear.  I will check out after I finish my coffee and head over to Bergen, a three hour ride plus a short ferry, and meet up with Karina, a woman that I met in Greece two years ago.

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